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Old 7.12.2008   #321
Woyta
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Tycku mam duty hlinik pr10mm a na nem rizly zavit A ze sroubu vyrobenou redukci pro normalni kouli.

Kulisa hlinik 5mm.

3-4 resim pomoci magnetu v otocnem mechanismu uvnitr joye. Mam silnejsi ze stare CD-ROM ale porad jsou slabe. Budu shanet neodym.
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Old 7.12.2008   #322
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v hdd jsou neodymove magnety, tak si nakrad nejake mrtve disky a dej se do prace
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Old 7.12.2008   #323
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jet View Post
v hdd jsou neodymove magnety, tak si nakrad nejake mrtve disky a dej se do prace
Na co krast kdyz z nich vyrabim brusky. Nejaky volny hlavicky se tu urcite najdou.
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Old 23.12.2008   #324
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jak mám zapojit t?etí pedál k joy aby fungoval? nikde sem to tu nenašel.
díky za radu.
foto konektoru:

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Old 23.12.2008   #325
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Vyndat z joye jeden potenciometr. Prodlouzit mu kabel a nacpat ho do pedalu.
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Old 23.12.2008   #326
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Jinak. Pedály mám ze starýho volantu kterej už nefachá, pedály jedou. A de mi o to abych to tam n?jak nakopal.


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Old 10.1.2009   #327
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Nemáte n?kdo šablonu na há?ko? M? se ne a ne poda?it ud?lat.
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Old 10.1.2009   #328
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pan google+4 kliky a violaaa
http://forum.racesimcentral.com/atta...3&d=1231251315
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Old 10.1.2009   #329
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Staci pravitko a tuzka.
1) Rozhodnout se v jake vysce bude kulisa.
2) Vedet krajní pozice a prumer tycky.
3) Podle toho nakreslit a vyriznout H.
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Old 13.1.2009   #330
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kulisa už chce jen doladit a bude hotová. Ale ?eším jina?í problém. Mám volant http://trust.com/products/product_de...spx?item=12933 , a ten má pedály kombinovaný. Nedají se n?jak ty osy rozd?lit?
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Old 13.1.2009   #331
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leda tak primocarou pilou
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Old 15.2.2009   #332
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hey there guys!
Im sorry i dont speak your language although im trying to understand it ...
Well... nice mods, lots of coool mods over here, gave me lots of ideas.

Well... my problem is, with virtual shifter software, only 3rd and 4th gears are working... the other ones are like dead...

I have a Genius F16 joystick and i wouldn't like to remove the springs... im might loose realism.

I tried do a wooden gear pattern but no use... ill have to design another one cuz the one i did was too wide so at the moment, i have to put my hand on top of the joystick to keep on moving, otherwise the joystick will return to neutral position.

What do you recommend? Mister W, (forgot your name) way cool hshifter you have... its fantastic

Regards to all, congratulations
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Old 15.2.2009   #333
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I recommend metal work. There si photo how to design patern. You can see thiner aluminium pipe 10mm instead of original plastic.

This is result. For patern i used 5mm aluminium sheet.

I also removed front-back spring.
Inside you can find simple magnetic lock for gears (i have to order stronger neodym magnets).
I have to deal with neutral position. Propably magnets again.

My shifter is dal action. I can use XY axis + h-shifter (and some buttons) or swithes connected to buttons. (I am using Genius F22 with more axis and buttons) Z and R axis i used for cluth and handbrake.
Switches:


Shifter settings:
You have to set limits for your joystick. You should find how in readme file.
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Old 15.2.2009   #334
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hey thnx for the fast reply!
Do you have the jpg or bmp file with the gear pattern or template?
If i remove the back spring , is it easy to put it back on?
If so, how can i remove it?
Thnx
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Old 15.2.2009   #335
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Quote:
Originally Posted by silvermatt View Post
hey thnx for the fast reply!
Do you have the jpg or bmp file with the gear pattern or template?
If i remove the back spring , is it easy to put it back on?
If so, how can i remove it?
Thnx
You are welcome.
No i haven't sketch of patern. I tried different hights of patern. That is why you can see hoose under cartoon. I also can test function of patern and improve it.
When you open your joy, you find it simple. And you can put it back. But why?
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Old 15.2.2009   #336
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okay so first ill check the x and y values... based on that values ill draw the shift patterns.
Here are some pics
Id like a long shifter model... what do you think?
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Picture001_15Feb04.jpg‎ (41.7 KB, 37 views)
File Type: jpg Picture002_15Feb04.jpg‎ (36.0 KB, 30 views)
File Type: jpg Picture003_15Feb04.jpg‎ (28.9 KB, 28 views)
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Old 15.2.2009   #337
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btw, im just starting heheh here are some pics of my failed pattern
problems problems.. the thing is... i made a big mistake ... i didnt use the vritual h-shifter software to calculate the x y values... so the gears arent working correctly.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Picture004_15Feb04.jpg‎ (34.8 KB, 33 views)
File Type: jpg Picture005_15Feb04.jpg‎ (32.2 KB, 24 views)
File Type: jpg Picture006_15Feb04.jpg‎ (36.2 KB, 15 views)
File Type: jpg Picture007_15Feb04.jpg‎ (38.8 KB, 17 views)
File Type: jpg Picture008_15Feb04.jpg‎ (39.5 KB, 16 views)
File Type: jpg Picture009_15Feb04.jpg‎ (36.7 KB, 23 views)
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Old 15.2.2009   #338
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you're going to drive a bus?
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Old 15.2.2009   #339
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hahaha no... ill put the base lower but ill cover it anyway so it doesn't look like im driving a bus... (uhh but it would be cool haha)
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Old 16.2.2009   #340
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Visit local hardware shop ad buy some pipe or vire with diameter 10mm. Then cut part of that plastic bar. Insert pipe or vire in hole. Hole in plastic iss little smaller. So you can use force, drill or my favorite M10 thread tool. I have M10 on pipe and M10 i that plastic ball. For securing of pipe position i used epoxy glue.
That part of tool is not ideal. It is heavy. Long bar cased troubles becase poteciometers in F16 aren't good. And few degrees rotation is not enought.
SW is working good but there is lot of interference in potenciometers.
You must use maximum of their track. That means, bar should be short. +/- 15cm over joy. It depends on what gear you will use. Long stick = long track or lot of interference.
Short stick = you will realy enjoy this
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Last edited by Woyta; 16.2.2009 at 10:37.
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